Cincinnati’s 21st-Century Renaissance

The Queen City gets a modern makeover, emphasizing time-tested bones.

Thanks to revitalization initiatives begun in the late '90s and early aughts, plus two colossal restoration projects completed in 2017 and 2018, the Queen City has more to offer than soft wieners and spaghetti with tepid chili on top.

It is a city of contrasts and contradictions: delicacy and brawn, vitality and torpor, vintage charm, and modern edge.

But the once-blazing downtown lights had grown dim for a half-century snooze. Now emerging from hibernation, Porkopolis hopes to dish out some primo prosciutto for a long while, if the price tags are any indication. The newly revealed Music Hall and Union Terminal both join an already dazzling roster of improvements to entertainment, infrastructure, and transportation.

Cincinnati has had a particular allure for centuries, notable for its position on the Ohio River, making it a point of passage for the western frontier. Its penchant for urbane culture started as long ago as the late 18th century when its first French pastry chef moved in to serve what was then the densest population in the country.

Developing as a vibrant publishing center, the Blue Chip City also came to possess its own symphony, opera, ballet, theaters, art museums, and respected institutions of higher learning, all of which put it on track with New York City as a burgeoning high-culture metropolis. That started to shift in the 1950s when businesses moved to the suburbs, and the city went into cardiac arrest.

A Double Grand Finale

Slowly the energy cranked up again. Tripping the light to spectacular effect were the renovations of two crown jewels that had fallen into disrepair. In 2017, after an expenditure of $143 million and following a two-year closure, the Cincinnati Music Hall reopened with improved acoustics and facilities to present the myriad delights of a symphony pops orchestra, ballet, opera, and choir.

In late 2018, the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal was ready not only for visitors to the various science and history museums therein but also for Amtrak. The $228 million job included cleaning and restoring what seemed like miles of Winold Reiss's "Worker Murals," depicting Cincinnati industry—iron, meatpacking, soap, textiles, pottery, pianos, airplanes, publishing, and printing—bringing the mammoth airplane hangar/Art Deco gem back to its 1930s splendor.

Cincinnati Ferris and BridgeRoxane Assaf-Lynn

Sightlines in Downtown Cincy: Contrasts in Old and New

There's something big and bold looming at the end of every downtown street in Cincinnati: two 21st-century sports stadiums (Reds and Bengals, $290 million and $455 million); a 19th-century suspension bridge; a Ferris wheel; a freeway system; an antique mansion-turned-art-museum.

Getting Around Cincinnati: Recent Upgrades

The shows, jazz clubs, storied bars, and museums are all clustered a Lyft ride from the river, making Cincinnati a veritable carnival. A downtown streetcar system opened to the public in 2016 at a cost of $148 million, but, curiously, most attractions can be reached by a more recent arrival: the self-propelled scooter. Since 2018, Cincy has had two scooter-sharing companies competing for untrained riders. Simply install the app on your phone, give it your credit card number, scan in your driver's license, and you're off. Leave the skinny two-wheeler anywhere deemed courteous. (Protocols become obvious after several rides.) There are also plenty of bikeshare stations around town – old school, by Cincinnati standards (introduced way back in 2014).

Contradictions and Contrasts in Cincinnati Culture: The Chili

Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse and Jean-Robert's Table have set the bar high, but the concoction of soft spaghetti with thin chili under an airy haystack of cheddar is still the city's crowning cultural achievement. Onto a base of obedient noodles, liquid chili is ladled, producing the two most consequential layers of a "five-way." More alternative components include beans, onions, and mounded tendrils of mild cheddar cheese. Subtract an ingredient or two, and you're eating a "four-way" or a "three-way," bearing no resemblance in any case to the "Five Ways" of Thomas Aquinas.

In a stroke of irony, the town credited as the "original American city" for eschewing reliance on immigration, has as its most culture-defining chili chains shops that were created by Greeks and Jordanians.

From Gravy to Gravitas

The city's reputation for right-wing conservatism is challenged by the front-and-center riverside presence of the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center. The modern, multi-level complex highlights the city's strategic location in U.S. history across the river from a slave state. It is also dedicated to raising consciousness on the legacy of racism in the United States. One exhibit offers a virtual reality experience of sitting in Rosa Parks's infamous 1955 bus seat.

Cincinnati Fountain SquareRoxane Assaf-Lynn

Music, Art, and Post-Prohibition Refreshment

In 2017, Cincinnati's fabled Bay Horse Café opened doors to its latest iteration right on Main Street, having made it through the 1920s with its 1879 name intact. The neon sign pressed tin ceiling, and mirrored bar mean you can absolutely order a gin Rickey and the barkeep will understand.

The controversially gentrified Over-the-Rhine corridor pays homage to its origins in the beer business with lovingly presented heritage brewfests amidst restored Victorian, Italianate, Greek Revival, and Germanic structures. Whatever commercial influx had begun in Over-the-Rhine in the '90s was halted when an off-duty police officer shot an African-American teenager in the chest, killing him. Riots ensued. It was considered the most dangerous neighborhood in the U.S. But in time (and with a half-billion dollars from the project's principal developer), the subdivided area has become a draw for lovers of beer, music in a park, dog-walking, small plates, high rent.

Blind LemonRoxane Assaf-Lynn

The Cincinnati You May Remember

If escaping the Cincinnati renaissance is desired, head up one of the city's seven hills, Mount Adams, and find a bar and a theater that have both been there since the 1960s, an art museum constructed in 1886, and a plant conservatory finished in 1933. Ask around for the Blind Lemon to enjoy live music and drinks in a warmly wacky space. Then head up the hill for a show at the Cincinnati Playhouse in the Park, or save the drinks for after a day at the Cincinnati Art Museum and Krohn Conservatory in Eden Park.

If you're looking for a better-known music act, it's possibly taking place at Bogart's next to the University of Cincinnati, an appropriate neighbor to a school so known for its programs in music, art, and design.

All dressed up for an opera at Music Hall or a stage show at the modern Aronoff Center? End the night enthroned in 1930s Art Deco glamour in the Bar at Palm Court at the Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza. Enter the iconic Carew Tower by way of this extravagant lobby, and the sound of live jazz will sweep you in like Fred Astaire taking Ginger Rogers by the narrows.

More Contradictions

A city that in the early 19th century self-consciously sought a western regional identity as distinct from eastern states, partially by equating artistic expression with prosperity and sophistication, earned a new image as a town intent on being hostile toward the arts. In 1990, its Mapplethorpe obscenity trial resulted from a number of sexually explicit photographs included among approximately 175 prints exhibited at the Cincinnati Contemporary Arts Center. Both the museum and its director were indicted and put on trial. After several days of testimony, the jury returned a verdict of not guilty.

By all appearances, that experience may have been the Queen City's ultimate coming of age. But the facelift that followed will make you forget the bumps. The Queen of the West is up from her nap, and she's ready to see you now.

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Joshua Tree National Park is a gigantic desert located at the crossroads between Palm Springs, the Mojave Desert, and Colorado.

Ever wanted to visit it? Here's what you need to know.

When you first visit Joshua Tree, you're going to want to make a pitstop at one of its three visitor centers—the Joshua Tree Visitors Center (in the northwest), the Cottonwood Visitor Center (in the south), the Oasis Visitor Center (in the north), or the Black Rock Campground (in the northwest, open from October through May). Be sure to call in advance before you go.

In general, it's best to visit the park in the spring or fall. A popular stop-off for hikers, rock climbers, and road-trippers, the park is a surreal and unforgettable area beloved for its unique Joshua trees and so much more.

Must-See Highlights

If you only have a short time in Joshua Tree, you'll want to see its most famous destinations. The Cholla Cactus Garden is a highlight—located 20 minutes north of the Cottonwood Visitor Center, it's a must-see, and if you can make it out for sunrise, the experience will be extra unforgettable.

Steve Sieren Steve SierenFlickr

Consider paying a visit to Parker Dam, a rare watery oasis in the middle of the desert. You might also take a trip to the Cottonwood Spring Oasis for more watery views, possibly complete with views of bighorn sheep.

History and Culture

For some history, be sure to check out the Keys Ranch, to hear the story of Bill and Frances Keys, who built a town—including a schoolhouse and ranch—in Joshua Tree for their five children. Don't miss Keys View while you're at it.

keys view Keys Viewalexvy.org

Keys View

Joshua Tree is well-known for drawing all sorts of alternative types, and it has the lore to match. Rock and roll fans often visit Cap Rock, the place where rocker Gram Parsons' body was cremated.

Cap RockJoshua Tree 3D

Natural Wonders: Trees, Stars and Rocks

Joshua Tree is one of the best places in the world to see stars. With some of the darkest skies in the world, it's a great chance for desert photography or possible UFO sightings.

Joshua Tree Night Sky Joshua Tree Night SkyShaina Blum

It's also well-known for its many rock formations. There's Split Rock, a giant boulder that appears to be literally split in two, located off Park Boulevard.

There's also Skull Rock, a rock that, naturally, resembles a fleshless human face.

Skull ROck Skull ROckProtrails

Then there's Arch Rock, which you can climb on in order to see the desert from a brand-new angle.

Arch Rock Arch Rockfollowyourdetour.com

And of course, there are the Joshua trees. In addition to the famous trees, the park has a variety of other desert plants, including the gorgeous red-plumed Ocotillo.

Ocotillo OcotilloiStock

Hiking and Adventure

Rock climbers (or anyone who wants to watch in awe) can pay a visit to the Hidden Valley Campground, a world-renowned climbing center. Hidden Valley also offers gorgeous views of Coachella Valley. Climbers also love visiting the Jumbo Rocks Campground, with its many challenging formations.

For a slightly less strenuous day, visit the beautifully descriptively named Oasis of Mara, a stretch of honey mesquite and playas that offers a short-half mile loop which will let you experience the desert's wildflowers and nature. Mara was named by the Serrano Indians, who called this location their first home in this world.

Oasis of Mara Oasis of MaraSCPR

Another popular Joshua Tree hike is the 49 Palms Oasis hike, a 3-mile trek to an oasis. The Ryan Mountain hike is also a 3-mile uphill trek that will take you around 3 hours, but it'll lead you to a dramatic 3000-foot elevation with 360 degree views.

Finally, the also-3-mile Mastodon Peak Hike will take you to views of the Salton Sea and Eagle Mountains. If driving is more your speed, the park is definitely best for four-wheel drives; if you've got one, check out the Geology Tour Road, an 18-mile stretch that offers 16 stops and plenty of access to scenery.

Camping and Lodging

Camping is a popular attraction in Joshua Tree, so be sure to reserve your campsite ahead of time.

There are 9 main campgrounds in Joshua Tree—Belle Campground, Black Rock Campground, Cottonwood Campground, Hidden Valley Campground, Indian Cove Campground, Jumbo Rocks Campground, Ryan Campground, Sheeps Pass Campground, and the White Tank Campground.

You can also try staying at a Bureau of Land Management-owned area, or backcountry camping if you're prepared to really fend for yourself—just be sure to register at one of the backcountry boards.

If you're not up for camping, check out a local motel or Airbnb—there are plenty available near the park.

Tips and Tricks

Joshua Tree National Park has no cell service, so you'll really want to plan ahead before you go. There are no restaurants or grocery stores in the park, so be sure to pack food and water.

Food & Drink

6 NYC Food Trends You Can Try at Home

From Raindrop Cakes to Ramen Burgers, these New York City food crazes are available in your kitchen.

Back when a world outside your home and the grocery store existed, New York City had a habit of getting swept up in food crazes.

Sometimes those crazes have involved a burgeoning appreciation for an established cultural tradition from around the world -- arepas, poké bowls, Korean barbecue. At other times these crazes have just involved particular purveyors taking a familiar item more seriously -- like the doughnut renaissance spurred by Doughnut Plant and Dough.

But the most alluring and often ridiculous food trends in New York City tend to involve something truly novel, eye-catching, and sometimes just weird. Fortunately, for those of us who are taking pandemic conditions seriously, there are options to bring some of the novelty of those trends home for the Instagrammable weirdness you may have been missing.

These are some of the recent New York City food trends that you can try for yourself.

Raindrop Cake

raindrop cake

Like a lot of food trends that sweep New York, the Raindrop Cake can be traced back to Japan. Created by the Kinseiken Seika company outside Tokyo, the clear, jiggly cake was originally introduced as water mochi. In 2016 a Brooklyn-based digital marketer named Darren Wong set out to introduce the strange "edible water" to New York at the Smorgasburg food festival, and the strangely beautiful dessert took off.

Now Wong sells kits with everything you need to create your own low-calorie jellyfish/breast implant confection at home. For $36 the kit includes ingredients, molds, and bamboo trays for six raindrop cakes served with brown sugar syrup and Japanese Kinako flour.

Cronuts

cronuts

Dominique Ansel Bakery

When French pastry chef Dominique Ansel introduced New York to his chimera dessert blending a croissant with a doughnut, it was an overnight sensation with lines around the block to try the flaky fried goodness. They were such a hit that a more pedestrian version of the cronut made its way to Dunkin around the country.

Since then, Ansel has unveiled a number of buzzworthy and inventive creations, like What-a-Melon ice cream, Zero-Gravity cakes, and frozen s'mores. But if you want to try the sensation that started it all, Ansel has shared his original cronut recipe.

And if it turns out that you're not quite at the level to emulate a world-renowned French pastry chef, you can always try the knock-off version with these simple biscuit dough donuts you can make in an air fryer.

Ramen Burger

ramen burger

Here's another food craze imported from Japan. The ramen burger has popular in the Fukushima region for some time, but it was first introduced to New York by chef Keizo Shimamoto's restaurant Ramen Shack in 2013.

The simple fusion of Japanese and American cuisine is pretty much exactly what it sounds like. Instead of a standard white bread bun, ramen noodles are cooked to chewy perfection, pressed into a bun shape, then seared in sesame oil until the outside is crispy.

Inside that bun you can place whatever kind of burger you like, but Shimamoto's version involved a beef patty served with arugula, scallions, and a signature sauce. While your results with instant ramen are unlikely to match the quality of Shimamoto's buns, this recipe should help you get close.

Ube Ice Cream

Ube ice cream

Gemma's Bigger Bolder Baking

The purple yam known as ube is a staple of Filipino desserts. In recent years its distinctive, almost floral sweetness has grown in popularity in NYC, showing up in a variety of baked goods and in the Philippines's signature take on shaved ice -- halo-halo.

The fluffy ube mamons -- sponge cakes -- at Red Ribbon Bakeshop are a great introduction to what has made it such a popular ingredient. There is also the delicious flan-like ube halaya. But maybe the most craveable and craze-worthy uses of ube is as a flavor of ice cream.

This simple recipe calls for ube extract or powder, rather than using actual yam -- but the distinctive ube flavor still comes through in the delicious results.

Grasshoppers

Tempura grasshoppers

Food Republic

Speaking of climate change... oh, were we not talking about climate change? It's always just lingering in the background -- a portent of doom hovering over all our thoughts about the future? Cool.

Anyway, speaking of climate change, one of the most important changes our society will need to make in order to mitigate its catastrophic effects it to shift our food supply to a more sustainable model. And one of the keys to that effort will be a shift away from meat to less wasteful protein sources.

Plant-based alternatives like impossible burgers and beyond meats are a likely component of that shift, but one of the most efficient forms of protein on Earth is also one of the easiest to come by -- bugs. With that in mind, restaurants like The Black Ant have introduced insects as a fashionable part of NYC dining.

You might be thinking that's gross, but in reality...it absolutely is. Bugs are weird and gross, and the idea of eating them is not appetizing.

But chances are there's already something in your diet that would be gross if you weren't used to it -- aren't lobsters basically sea bugs anyway? So if you can find a way to get over that mental block and make those bugs appealing -- as cultures around the world have been doing throughout history -- you might be ready for the Snowpiercer dystopia that lies ahead.

With that in mind, you can buy a bucket of crunchy dried grasshoppers to start experimenting with cooking. And, while not as inventive as Black Ant's grasshopper-crusted shrimp tacos, these recipes for curried tempura grasshoppers and Oaxacan chapulines tacos sound downright edible.

Hot Cocktails

hot toddy

Okay, this is hardly a new or a specifically New York trend, but with restaurants and bars moving outdoors in the middle of winter, people have been warming themselves with hot beverages. But there's nothing to stop you from bringing that heat home to enjoy a tipsy winter night on a balcony, rooftop, or fire escape.

From hot toddies to hot buttered rum, spiked hot chocolate, and mulled wine, the possibilities are endless. A hot cocktail can be as simple as Irishing-up a cup of coffee, but we recommend getting your hands on some citrus peel and mulling spices -- cloves, cinnamon sticks, allspice, stare anise, and nutmeg -- and start experimenting with some cheap red wine or apple cider spiked with your favorite brown liquor.

Travel Tips

Best Jobs for People Who Love To Travel

If you want to travel but have a job that is currently holding you back, here are a few of our suggestions for the best jobs for people who love to travel.

For many people, traveling is an amazing experience, but traveling is not always feasible because of responsibilities to work.

One way to get around this roadblock is to get a job that will let you travel and see the world. Here are some of the best jobs for people who love to travel.

Hostelworld HostelworldHostelworld.com

Translator

A translator is a wonderful job for those who want to travel. It will bring you to many places as you work, so long as those places speak the language you can translate. The great thing about translating is the variety of work you can get by translating for specific clients or just translating for tourists in the area. You can choose what type of scene you wish to work in very easily.

Pilot

A pilot fits the definition of a job that gets to travel perfectly. Now, whether you are a private pilot or a commercial pilot, you will still get to fly all over the planet. The only major problem with this job is the requirement of flight classes. But once you get your license, you can fly freely around the world while making yourself money to fund your trips.

Travel blogger

Being a travel blogger is a temperamental job but, if done correctly, it will allow you to visit anywhere you want. Writing to fans as you travel the world can be a fun and exciting way to engage with the planet. This job can be difficult to do, though, as you must be able to write consistently and capture your audience with each post.

English teacher

This may not sound like a job that allows you to travel, but schools all around the world are always looking for more people to teach English.

In this career, you would move near the school that you would teach at and live there over the course of your time there. The interesting thing about this job is that it does not necessarily require a teaching degree, depending on the school and country in question. You also get to live in a new country for an extended period.

When it comes to the best jobs for people who love to travel, these are just a few of our suggestions. There are plenty of jobs where you can travel around the world, but these ones are far-reaching and cover a lot of different lifestyles. They might seem like pipe dreams, but hey, you never know!